GCN Waluigi Stadium

jawdyn

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GCN Waluigi Stadium




INTRODUCTION
Hello everyone, this is Jawdyn (previously known as Dartanian). In this thread I am going to explain the ins-and-outs of this convoluted race course so you too can learn one of the hardest tracks like the back of your hand! I will be explaining both track routes and item strategies used so you can play Waluigi Stadium at a high level as well.



NOTABLE RUNS
01'48"754 driven by
Ace (Current World Record)
★ 01'49"701 driven by
Mariyoshi (Daisy+Mach Bike BKT)
01'50"432 driven by
Cauchy (No Turn-skip BKT)



CHARACTER COMBINATIONS
Although Funky Kong+Bowser Bike is the predominant combination for this course, you too can learn this track with Daisy+Mach Bike, however Funky Kong has a bigger advantage on the final ramp, as Daisy simply doesn't get as much forward momentum as Funky Kong does and on top of not being able to low-trick the final ramp (losing out on roughly "150 milliseconds each lap).



BIBLIOGRAPHY
MKLeaderboards for the current Top 10's.
CTGP Records for uploading World Records.
SwordofSeals & Mandermka for former runs and screen-caps.

Throughout the driving portion of this guide, I am going to reference the following:
☆ 01'50"686 driven by
RockyLight
★ 01'48"861 driven by
Totom
☆ 01'50"470 driven by
Jarv

All being former World Records and using different strategies and combinations to get across the track, I think it's important to go through each one in-depth.
 
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jawdyn

jawdyn

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Waluigi Stadium
Thread Starter #2
Funky Kong+Bowser Bike, 150cc



ALIGNMENT, FIRST RAMP, CORNER & STRAIGHT
As soon as the time trial starts, it is most optimal to get the best start-boost and align yourself up for the first corner within the first second of the trial starting. Whilst in a wheelie over the first ramp, you do not trick on the first ramp as your airtime is drastically increased, alongside your start-boost giving you the perfect amount of speed to land directly into corner and with the addition of the trick-boost you will over-shoot yourself leaving you vulnerable to a wide first corner.


Try aligning yourself with the fence fragment before the second green sign as an indicator for a visual marker.

Before landing from the first ramp, you want to tilt down and hold your drift just before you hit the ground and proceed into a soft-drift of sorts before you are confident with your alignment. This way you are about to get a fast first corner with a very high chance of no bounce landings as well as not drifting onto the tighter curve, as this will throw off your alignment for the second corner.


It is essential that you release your drift just before going up the second set of humps as this will more often set you up for the second corner and drift ramp section. On top of that, you are most likely too late to stay airborne from said humps.



SECOND CORNER, DRIFT-RAMP & LANDING. ALIGNMENT THEN PERFORMANCE FOR WALL BOUNCE & SHORTCUT
You've read the sub-heading and yes, this section will be quite long as nothing in this game compares to something quite so intricate; wherever you may fail within this section of the track, the rest of the section will most certainly look very sloppy. This is also the part of the track where you can gain or lose the most time (depending on how well you execute the tech).

First and foremost however, the second corner. What you want to do for this section is to time your hop landing with the start of the second corner. Drifting wide and aligning yourself with the obtuse angle within the chevron of the boost panel, this will lead us to the drift ramp.


There are no, real visual markers that helped me out here, so sadly I'm going to have to break it to you that this will get great practice to get right.

As soon as you hit the right angle within the chevron of the boost pad, bring your control stick down to the bottom right, leading into a soft-drift at a moderate pace: too quickly will land you into the invisible wall as well as too slowly will land you too wide. This in-turn will take some patience and practice to get due to the lack of visual markers.


It is most optimal to take the best alignment as it provides the best pace of speed and forward momentum to land from the drift ramp. However you do have alternate space, but is a lot more risky in landing in the best alignment.

ATTN: The wider you start on the drift ramp, the faster you want to slide into your drift for landing.

Landing from the drift ramp is crucial as this can easy kill any run. Slightly before you lean back at the start of your drift ramp, you will need to release your mini-turbo you has just charged before leaving the ground. This will not only give you your forward momentum but it will allow you to get your the tight alignment and landing to the alignment for the wall bounce.



1570709454831.png

As soon as you leave the ramp, as you hold a hard-right position, you want to time the pace of your analog-stick to curve around the edging of the controller and as soon as you see your landing position, you want to release your formally built mini-turbo and again, go in to a hard-right position as quick as you can and hold that drift a little before landing.

As soon as you hit the ground, you want to follow the side slope off around the corner and place yourself parallel and close to the left-hand side of the upcoming ramp. Here, we are positioning ourselves for the wall bounce.


You want to leave the corner wide by using the inner tire marks as a visual as to where you should start aligning. Once you have released your mini-turbo, its helps to tilt wider coming out from the corner to get closer to the left-side wall.

On approach to the wall bounce, you will want to keep your alignment just after the final boost panel; this is where you:
☆ First, cancel your wheelie.
★ Followed by a down-trick.
☆ As you down-trick, make a sharp left tilt as you leave the ramp and go airborne.


Once you see the back tire's glow make an indent on the invisible wall, hit right on the analog-stick as this will give you space to land away from the wall. Landing too close to the wall will either result in you hugging the wall itself as it wastes away your boost, or wheelie off the side of the arrows on the side of the road and most likely hitting the (invisible) wall before the shortcut.

Upon landing, make your you have enough space between the left-side of the wall and yourself. Keep wide and wheelie into the shortcut!




SHORTCUT EXIT & ZIPPER ENTRANCE
After taking a tight shortcut, you will want to exit on a wider line. The reason for this is that said line should align you safely and near enough perfectly for the zipper entrance. Entering the half-pipe on a tight line will only send you wider and hit the zippers later, thus losing major time.



Coming out the shortcut, hold your drift and allow yourself to get a wide alignment; aim for the right side of the darker patch displayed in the entrance of the straightaway.

Sometimes you can get minor air coming out of the shortcut and you too can use this entering the zippers as it cancels out the need to hop in to your drift, though you will drift for longer and is not a consistent way of getting to the start of the zippers.

What doesn't have any visual ques sadly, is knowing when to drift up onto the zippers: you're almost driving blind for this tenth-of-a-second.

A consistent way around this however is to simply hold either a hard-left or top-left soft-drift turn (depending on your angle coming in) until you see the zippers themselves, then you are more free to either play it safe, make sure you make the zippers by holding wider on the drift before pulling up a wheelie on approach.




ZIPPER STRATEGY #1 & EXIT
Buckle up bros and hoes, things are about to get a little more technical, again...

Pulling a wheelie on the zippers are the fastest way to manoeuvre and proceed on to the next section of the track. There are two ways about doing the zippers, this is the first strategy.

On approach to the zippers, simply wheelie up them and try to get as little air as possible (as all we want from them is the boost that comes from driving up them). Being airborne on the zippers will make landing a lot more harder and drastic as well as it being slower in general. As soon as you land from one zipper wheelie, hit left on your analog stick and simultaneously hopping and do the same. On average, you can get around 5 to 6 zipper wheelies before coming down from the section when done correctly.

Make sure to left the zippers before the zipper cuts off to the fence. This ensures that you get enough grounding and room for the zipper exit.

In comparison to simply hopping up the zippers, you should save around four-tenths-of-a-second. It's a lot harder, but definitely worth it!



After your final boost has run out, (roughly at the same time) simply turn into the next corner with a mid soft-drift. The alignment should give you the least bit of air on approach as you go up the half-pipe exist moderately.

Upon exit, you want to release an instant wheelie and aim for the dead centre of the two bumps.



ZIPPER STRATEGY #2 & EXIT
There are two ways in which you can pull off the second zipper strategy, one being the transition-turn-skip (which is to simply hop of your wheelie "tradition" on the zippers and simply aim in to the turn-skip) and the second one being the no-transition turn-skip. This being mildly harder but saves enough to off-screen a ghost in comparison. I will only be explaining the no-transition turn-skip in this guide.



Just like the first zipper strategy, you're going to want to get up onto the zippers as soon as possible and you are going to wheelie between 3 or 4 times before cancelling your wheelie on the zipper that aligns yourself with the end of the piranha's pipe. This gives an easy alignment when to perform your first trick.

The first trick is detrimental to get right and is more-or-less the heart of the turn-skip.

Your first trick should be a down trick (you can get away with any side trick too). A down trick as the first trick allows you to get back onto the zipper safely to perform your next trick and wheelie. An up trick, for instance, is a lot more dangerous as you not only have the ability to wheelie off the zipper entirely, but landing is ironically enough "smoother" in this case, and you will not get back onto the zipper in time.

Again, there are no visual ques for this stunt to be pulled off however, you are expected to get the least air possible when doing the first trick. This allows you to align yourself properly for the second trick which wraps you around the wall and keeps your boost to be charged for when you land in the lane adjacent to the zipper wall. This technique takes great patience and it pays off as a good turn-skip saves between three-to-four-tenths-of-a-second every lap.

For the second trick, you are free to do any trick you wish. Although down tricks are the fastest as they wrap you around the wall quicker, there are no restrictions.

Upon landing on the other side of the wall, you will want to time a hard left drift as soon as your bike collides with the wall. This way you'll get a tight landing and will be set up for the second last corner. The only thing to make sure when landing from the second trick is to make sure you cancel your wheelie as soon as you wrap around the wall: carrying your wheelie to the landing will heavily impact your landing as you will not have time to cancel the wheelie and end up going awkwardly wide (as well as a bad alignment for the upcoming u-turn).


PRE-AND-PRESENT U-TURN & SLIP-DRIFT
Congratulations, you've made it out of the half-pipe and have all limbs attached! Now that you have made it past the zippers, its time for a simple bit of driving with no "real" tech... well, for the time being anyway.

As mentioned earlier, as you naturally start wider going into the straight, aim yourself into the middle of the road: it shouldn't matter what zipper exit you took. Make sure to not trick on either hump too as this will make you airborne and boosts contribute nothing to the alignment other than sending you wide for the u-turn (especially if you've made the turn-skip).

Diagram.jpg

Before hitting the tip of the second mud hill, be prepared to hop; don't hold right at this point. This gives you less air over the hill and is the perfect set up for the pin-turn. As soon as you hit the ground once again, make a drift to the right. When you are confident in your drift, hold it to a hard-right drift as this will make your turn tighter.


Upon approach to the slip-drift after the pin-turn, you want to make sure your bike is aligned with the clip of mud before releasing your mini-turbo, to drift left (back into alignment). This will prepare your line for the final turn.

FINAL CORNER, FINAL RAMP & LANDING
Diagram.jpg


Time your hop a tad before the final skid-marks. This will allow yourself to get a tight alignment around the last corner.

Coming into the final ramp, we want ourselves to be positioned nearer to the right from the middle. This will give us a more optimised landing, leading into the next lap.

Just like the DS Delfino Square bridge, we want to time a hop-drift on the very tip of the ramp; this will give us less air time and will fall quicker back onto the track.

Upon landing from the final ramp, it is far safer--though milliseconds slower--to do a tail dive. If you are not confident in your abilities in landing from this jump then aim up on the analog stick mid air and just as you're about to land, hold down on the analog stick and be prepared to wheelie back into alignment for the upcoming lap.

 
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